The rock-hewn churches of Lalibela, Ethiopia in the northern highlands of the country must be one of Africa’s finest sights. Steeped in mystery and history, Lalibela and its churches are something that you must see when you go to Ethiopia. Lalibela is not just another UNESCO Heritage site that turned into a museum. This small town up in the Lasta Mountains is one of the country’s holiest places and the center of pilgrimage of the Ethiopian Orthodox Christians. These ancient churches are alive and to visit Lalibela, Ethiopia is to travel back to the times of Genesis.
The churches of Lalibela are not like the Angkor Wats or Machu Pichus of the world. You don’t get a glimpse of what they once were. These churches are alive. They breathe and you get to see them for what they are TODAY.
Lalibela contains the highest concentration of rock-hewn churches in entire Ethiopia. Historians believe that these churches, 11 in total, were constructed between the 7th and 13th centuries. We, Ethiopians, believe that angels helped carve Lalibela’s churches and it took 24 years to be completed- not a day longer. We also believe that the angels completed one of these churches in a single night.
Ethiopia was the second country to adopt Christianity as a state religion (after Armenia), and the churches of Lalibela do have some elements in common with Geghard monastery in Armenia.
The vision and mastermind behind this masterpiece is King Lalibela of Ethiopia. Ethiopians believe that they are the direct descendants of King Solomon from the bible. Queen of Sheba was Ethiopian, and she allegedly had a love child with Solomon. Sheba took this child back with her when she returned to Ethiopia.
When Jerusalem fell under the Arabs, King Lalibela decided to build a New Jerusalem. He had the eleven churches cut out of the solid rock with chisels, axes and other blades.
Stonemasons first traced the outline of the churches on the rock before starting to dig straight down into the rock. This created a trench surrounding the church. Once the shape of the church was defined, workers went ahead and hollowed out the church.
These churches are truly underground with the roofs on ground level. They were carved from top to bottom and then hollowed out from the bottom to the top. Facts and myths aside, the extraordinary complex of churches consists of 2 groups: the Southern and Northern groups. Both these clusters of churches consist of 5 churches each. The “River Jordan”, also cut from solid rock, separates the two clusters from each other.
The solitary, and perhaps most recognizable church in Lalibela, Biet Gyorgis (Church of Saint George) doesn’t belong to any of the groups.
Around Lalibela
The countryside around Lalibela is scattered with historic rock-hewn and cave churches, many of which are attributed to King Lalibela or other rulers of the Zagwe dynasty. Architecturally, most of them bear similarity to what you’ll see at Lalibela, but they tend to attract far fewer tourists, which – together with the rough roads and wild mountainous countryside – creates something of an expedition feel.
Asheton Maryam Monastery
A popular goal for a day-trip, the Asheton Maryam Monastery is one of the highest in Ethiopia, set at an elevation of almost 4000m to the southeast of Lalibela. Carved into a cliff face, it was most probably founded by Nakuta La’ab, who may also be buried there. The small and unadorned church harbours a few impressive crosses, illuminated manuscripts and other treasures, though arguably the most remarkable aspect of a visit to Asheton Maryam is its magnificent setting and the stunning views as you ascend.
Bilbilla and Yimrehanna Kirstos
The small village of BILBILLA, 30km north of Lalibela off the Sekota road, lies at the centre of a cluster of four historic churches. Three of these are rock-hewn, and though not as impressive as their counterparts in Lalibela town, they do predate them by several centuries – dating back, it’s claimed, to the sixth-century reign of Emperor Kaleb – and have the advantage of being less heavily touristic. The fourth and most unusual church, Yemrehanna Kristos, is a cave temple protecting a very old rectangular church built from layered wood and stone.
Mount Abune Yoseph
Peaking at 4284m about 15km northeast of Lalibela, Mount Abune Yoseph (also known as Rim Gedel) is one of the highest and wildest mountains in Ethiopia. Its remote upper slopes support a relict population of around 25 Ethiopian wolves, along with large numbers of gelada monkey, while the massif is home to more than two hundred bird species including lammergeyer and the endemic Erlanger’s lark, blue-winged goose and Ankober serin. A 70-square-kilometre area around the peak is set aside as the Abune Yoseph Community Conservation Area and is serviced by the highest community lodge in Africa (set at a chilly 3952m) as well as an extensive network of hiking trails. A minimum of three days and two nights is recommended for the trip, and the hike can be extended to a week by following some of the community trails.